That's How They Saw it
Cities tell their stories with their buildings,
churches and monuments. For an attentive observer, these cities are
like a big open book. There are plenty of references on cities,
which gather thoughts and comments by influent individuals who
lived in them.
Paola Rubbi has "interviewed" such persons who had the
opportunity to express themselves about Bologna and its people.
Paola Rubbi
I spoke about Bologna to
friends from another time. I love my city so much that I am probably
tempted to overestimate it, to excuse its weaknesses and errors,
to soften its potential faults. That is why I
wanted to ask influent individuals from the past who,
while travelling, lived in Bologna a while: some short comments on its
customs and its people. They are opinions which are signed by their
authors and which - like a bull's eye in a theatre - provide a light on the
reality of the ancient Emilian capital, helping us in a way understand what is
in that Bolognese DNA of ours.
When Michel Eyquem De Montaigne - great French
writer, author of the very famous work Essais - was in Bologna
in 1580, he described her like this: … This is a city adorned with
beautiful and wide porticoes with a large number of sumptuous palaces. We
live here, as we do in Padova and in the cities around,
in perfect living conditions; but this city is a little less quiet
because of the old existing divisions between factions, one leaning towards the
French, and the other towards the Spanish who live here in great number. There
is a beautiful fountain in the square. We have seen in Bologna an
ancient squared tower built to lean on one of its sides, menacing
to collapse at any given moment.
We have also seen the
University (the archi-gymnesium), which is the most beautiful building
I've seen for this use.
Charles Dickens, the famous English
narrator, author of David Copperfield, among other pieces of work, was also
taken by the Garisenda. He visited Bologna in 1844 and wrote: The
city has something grave and erudite about it, and it is immersed in such a
pleasant shadowy light that it seems that only these two things are sufficient
to remember her among many other cities, even if she would not particularly
impress the traveller with her two leaning brick towers (each one of
them being rather unsightly to say the truth). They are inclined askew as
if bowing rigidly to each other, ending in an extraordinary way the
perspective of some of the most narrow streets.
Goethe's father (Johann
Caspar, who was imperial counsellor) while travelling to Italy, stopped in
1740 in Bologna and
observed that:
The city holds justly her name of "the fat one" because one
can always eat so well here; in my pub there was
food prepared in French, Italian or German.
Centuries pass and the
good reputation of the Petronio table is not relenting. In
1914, Otto Von Taube, German author and historian, writes
that: In Bologna, I was in the company of men with hearty
appetites (…) and they talked, as far as I could undertand when they spoke
Italian, of only three things: of good food, the joys of love, and the
pleasure of music (…).
And, now, about the food in Bologna! What wine can
equal the Lambrusco, this sweet dark red sparkling wine? In how many
different ways is pasta prepared in Bologna? I tasted, with meat, thin yellow
slices of pumpkin cooked in the oven. That is Bologna "the fat
one".
Stendhal (or Henry Beyle, renowned French novelist, author,
among other titles, of The Red and the Black) during his stay in Italy
in 1816, notes that: Bologna is among the cities where hypocrisy is
most difficult (…). As in London, there is a lot of freedom of opinion in
conversations; but with the difference that, there, the tone is
philosophical and weighty, while here it is easy and spirited. Many of the
things freely expressed here in Bologna would scandalize the good society of
Portland Place.
The habit of using latin quotations is still very
present while the language has not crossed the Appennine (…).
But
something else caught Stendhal's attention: Bologna is a city
of 60,000 inhabitants (we are still in 1816 – 17; NfA),
a city of spirit where women are prudish, and where there is laughter, given
that women judge a man in less than three minutes. In fact, women speak with
candor of love and of the handsomeness they prefer (...). There may
not be in all of Bologna a woman who has not loved in an original way
(…). In Bologna, love and play are the fashionable passions,
music and paintings a leisure, and politics, under Napoleon, is ambition, a
refuge for unfortunate lovers (…). Among the women of Bologna, I found two or
three types of beauty and talent that I did not know existed.
All in
all, for the great French writer as for the university students, the goliards of
the twentieth century: Long live Bologna, the city of beautiful
women!